15 Feb 2013

Adventures of a different kind

I started writing this post 3 days ago - and have only managed to post it today! 
Dada is better - and we're in Cartagena - a beautiful city, but Im not so sure I like it so much - 
Still sussing it out - so more on Cartagena later - 
But from 3 days ago - 

We had our first mishap today - 
Dada hurt his back on the boat ride from Taganga to Tayrona (Cabo San Jaun)
It was also the boat ride from hell! And no one had warned us how bad it would be, neither had we/I read about how bad it would be.
It was a large enough boat, and thank God for that, coz otherwise the journey would have been far worse! 

The waters in Taganga are very calm - deceptively so, because its in a bay, but soon as you come out into the open sea - WOAH!!!
The sea was super rough, the waves were huge, and it was the choppiest, scarers boat ride of my life!
The guy captaining the boat was doing all he could to keep us safe, but the waters in some parts were just crazy - and when the boat would hit a wave - it was like hitting rock- hard bang - THHHHUUUUUDDD!!! Ouch! 
So on a particularly bad stretch - coming down on a swell - we bounced pretty high, and Dada hurt his back quite badly! Thankfully it was only about 5 mins away from Tyrona - but still! He had to lie down on the floor of the boat for that last stretch, he just couldn't sit. I was of course terrified he might have broken something - so soon as we got to shore, he lay down on the beach while I went off to find some sort of help - there was none. The only 'infirmary' (a tent with some medicines) was shut, and no signs of any paramedics. But before I could really start to panick - a guy came along saying he was the rescue person or something like that and could help Dada. So he made him stand and bend to make sure everything was ok, and gave him a massage to ease the pain and told to him to lie down and relax for a bit.
By this time, I had made up my mind, and told Dada that we were definitely not taking the boat back - but the road. Only thing was - the nearest trail head to any sort of transport was a 2 hour hike! But that was better than taking the boat ride back - especially with dada's back now - 
Anyways - while Dada lay down for a bit, I went off to find out about this walk and make sure there was nothing closer, and wander in general - 
Parque Tayrona is a National Reserve, and it's got some amazing beaches!!! Looks like one of those magical, idyllic islands you see in the movies- except it's not an island or a movie! 
There are several beaches you can use, dotted along the coast, or hike through the park and even see some indigenous people in their natural environment - it all looked quite spectacular!
It really was quite beautiful! But I couldn't really enjoy it - was very worried about Dada. So I came back to where he was- and he was ready to try and stand up - he managed thankfully - good sign!
So we decided to eat lunch and start our walk - which might take us longer than 2 hours, depending on how Dada was feeling. He couldn't sit properly at lunch - so I called the hotel back in Taganga to check how late the hospital here was open etc. Of course neither of our phones were working - and thankfully there was a shop that had a PCO type service, so I could make a call - 
We started walking after lunch - and thankfully the walk (according to Dada) helped loosen up or stretch or whatever the muscles, and he could do the walk without too much trouble. It took us just under 2 hours to reach Carneveral- and got into the first taxi we saw and headed back to Taganga. He didn't want to go to the hospital, so we bought some bengay instead, and he feels he'll be ok tomorrow - finger crossed! 

So to anyone who wants to visit Tayrona - take the road! Don't even consider taking the boat! The 2 hour walk to reach Cabo San Juan (where the boat dropped us off) is not too difficult and quite pretty - so it's worth it! We heard one of the guys on the boat with us say that Feb was the worst month on the coast, the waters are very rough - but who knows - the coast seemed quite weather beaten, so in my mind, the waters in these parts are quite rough year around - so yes- again - NO BOAT! 
You can stay in the park overnight or for a few days or however long you like - they have camping grounds (with ready tents also) and cabanas with hammocks etc. But both Dada and I said, this was not our thing! Though I did see some nice cabins with proper bathrooms on El Paraiso - should look into that! Also, you can walk the trail, or take horses - then again - some parts of the trail are quite steep - I would want to be on my own 2 feet in such situations! 

Taganga itself is a small beach tow with not much in it - a pretty beach front - but nothing spectacular - easy to give it a miss. The wind at night or even during the day actually is insane! Not as bad as parts of Tarifa - but it's pretty strong in most parts of the town, pretty crazy! 

Now that we have one adventure out of the way - onto the others!
Barranquilla and Carnaval!!! A whole different world - and whole different life, culture, existence! 
BUt before that - the last morning we were in Barranquilla - I was thinking to myself  - 
You truly understands what Marquez meant about the heat in the Caribbean (Caribbean Colombia that is) only after you've visited Barranquilla! At 9:30am we were already feeling the heat (28ºc, and it's their cooler season) and sweating. Our clothes were sticking to our bodies and I could literally feel the sweat pouring down every inch of me. In some ways, we're used to this weather - but we're not really, if you know what I mean. I cannot describe the heat and the humidity to you - it's a different beast from anything I've experienced before. The streets were deserted (also it was carnival), hardly anyone out, and I noticed that the houses were all built to keep cool of course. Dark interiors, heavy curtains, low windows - everything to keep the sun out! Oooffff - madness! 

Finally - Carnaval! 
It's one long 4 day party - of course! Everyone letting go before lent - so it's really hardcore - morning to morning partying! Madness! Adventure of a really different kind! :-)

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